To Sapporo

I may come back to my days in Matsumoto in some later reflections. Time however to cover the trip to Sapporo.

I kind of under estimated how long it would take to travel from Matsumoto to Sapporo. Partially because I can't find a train route planner for Japan (at least not yet - but if you know of one - please let me know). In the end it was a 12 hour haul from start to finish on 5 different trains. Simply put to it took a long time because to get there in one day meant doubling back to the outer edges of Tokyo rather than simply pushing north.

It was worth it. 12 hours of Japanese countryside Lots of mountains (some still bearing snow at the end of May despite the sweltering heat of the low lands), rivers, deep basins, suburbia, run down villages miles from anywhere, cinemas, ships, rivers and forests. In twelve hours you pass a lot of variation.

You also sometimes forget you are on a train. At one point I think I started singing along to my ipod. That may have been ok; but the train had just passed a Warner cinema, the ipod of was playing Ride of the Valkyries so naturally I think I broke into a chorus of "Kill the Wabbit, Kill the Wabbit, Kill the Wabbit " etc.

Couldn't of done too much harm. A little later an elderly traveller kept giving me mini packets of travel nuts. He spent the entire journey eating nuts and looking for seats to put together so he could make beds.

About four hours out from Sapporo I was starving hungry and bought a railway O'Bento (lunch box). This one turned out to be full of rice and fish (I'm getting used to fully understanding what I'm ordering to eat only some of time); and looked a little like the Chinese restaurant special meal from eXistenZ. I couldn't finish it. In fact I barely touched it before running the train toilet (which on all Japanese express and shinkansen are really big) and being quite ill. And continued feeling ill (well at time of writing - one day on - I still am not really well) for at least a day. Odd when past and present mix like that isn't it.

The big problem is - I've tried rice since then and cannot swallow it, and I cannot bear the smell of fish. It seems that for the moment rice and fish are taboo foods for me.

The next day - I managed to see Sapporo. A pleasant city, with an excellent subway. Unusually Sapporo is laid out on an exact grid - so is kind of American to look at.

A quick tip on Navigating in Japan. You must do it 3 dimensionally. Ground level may not reflect what you are looking for - to reach a destination you may have to think several stories up, or go underground.

Sapporo is also the home of Ramen noodles. All hail delicious Ramen in Miso. A very simple and very satisfying dish - with no rice or fishy influences at all.

Tomorrow I plan to travel by bus out of town.

Heading for the Hills

Matsumoto city
Located in central Honshu - in the Japanese Alps.
It may be called a city, but really it's more of a large town with a lot going on.

However let's not forget the journey - by Shinkansen to Nagoya and then limited express all the way there. The express section of the journey was nothing less than spectacular. Nothing short of forested hills and mountains. Deep valleys flowing with rivers of deep green water. Tall peaks crested in snow. True there was some industry here and there. Plenty of small towns and villages. Lots of paddy fields. A lot less golf and baseball nets. In truth this was the Japan I wanted to see.

So the train whizzed along and the driver - the driver played the trains horn at every possible opportunity. A horn that really should have belonged to a steam drive. So horn blaring we rushed passed vertical drops and arrived at Matsumoto. A nice station. Not to hard to navigate and not to hard to find the tourist information office. Who quickly found me a Ryokan to stay in for a couple of nights.

Cool because one of the things I wanted to achieve was a stay in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn), and this one - the Nunoya was just that. Small, laid out with wood everywhere - except the rooms - all done out in traditional tatami mats, plus a splendid Japanese style bathroom.

First problem - shoes off... slippers on - well no shoes off - not a slipper in sight large enough for my feet - so socks it was. Much to the amazement of my landlady (my feet had defied the biggest slippers available locally). At least my room was perfect - very tranquil a small futon bed, a table, cushions, teapot (full of green tea) and a few other sundries. It was cool, simple and tranquil.

I've had a chance to explore Matsumoto castle (one of the four surviving castles from the Edo period - Samurai) , relax in the park and take a look at the shrines.

The first few days in Matsumoto were very relaxing.

Transition Time

Last entry was really an I'm ok and I'm in Matsumoto broadcast.

Let's look at the story

I left Tokyo - after much complaining by Shinkansen bound for old Kyoto. The Shinkansen are terrific trains. No - even better than that. I'm talking clean, punctual, stylish and comfortable. Deep comfy seats, well laid out cabins, excellent toilets and and overall atmosphere of relax, enjoy the ride, the train will arrive ok. A real case of letting the train taking the strain.

So zooming through Japan. A glimpse of Fuji shrouded in cloud, rice fields, tea plantations, plastic dinosaurs, wide rivers, and concrete. The Japanese will put concrete anywhere. There's an awful lot of concrete in Japan. Mostly shoring up river banks, railway cuttings and mountain sides. One day Japan may sink from the weight of concrete.

There's also an awful lot of nasty blocky architecture too.

Yet so many beautiful houses with glazed tile roofs, clear rivers, mountain covered hillsides and baseball nets.

I was expecting nets from golf driving ranges. There are even more nets around baseball practice courts and pitches.

Yet we reached Kyoto. Nice and pleasant. Nowhere to stay at all. At least as far as could be determined in reasonable time. Unable to walk around hunting - I managed via a helpful travel agent contact a reasonable priced hotel in Osaka. Only half an hour away so Osaka it was.

Back onto the ever comfy Shinkansen and into Shin-Osaka station. At this point I was a little turned around and mistook Shin-Osaka for Osaka. A muddled 30 minutes later I was back on the platform. This time for a local trip (via a conversation with an old lady - yes this train went to Osaka - but I had to find a different coach). First train - too full to use. Second train (a whole 5 minutes later - I love the frequency of Japanese public transport)

To cut a long story of trains - platforms, bridges, underground walkways, I got into the enormous Hankyo hotel. Actually a complex of department store, hotel, train station. Absolutely enormous.

Hungry I went out hunting for food and found a wonderful little place in an absolute maze of bars and restaurents

Anyway time to stop this entry - it's turning into a boring I did this then that sort of entry. Suffice to say after a few hiccups things were going much better

Heading for the Hills

Hi all

I`m in the moutains. It`s getting on into the evening and I`m using a library computer. I`ve got lots to post about but given the hour I think I should just let everyone now my situation.

I`m feeling much better - but realise that being stuck in Tokyo gave me problems
a) the heat and press of people were getting to me
b) the little injury I had was worse than I thought and although not (as usual) in pain - it was having a detrimental effect on me.

The trip to Kyoto went well - I feel better - but failed because I couldn`t get a room so I had to swiftly move to Osaka for the night

At Osaka I realsied the extent of my problems so decided I needed to sit down and rest for a day - so took a long train ride into the Japanese Alps. I`m writing this from a late night library in Matsumoto.

So things are back under control. My emotional crisis is over and my old nemesis (for those who don`t know I have chronic foot problems) is back. But it`s an enemy I can see and that I understand.

Not Narita (Yet)

I've had a long think (in a long bath) and decided that yes - I've had problems and true I've learned loads and yep I'm fed up. But Tokyo isn't Japan and I have decided that I do not like Tokyo.

Today I'll take a softer option than Fuji and attempt to reach the ancient city of Kyoto. From there I can decide what to next. Kyoto is only a few hours from Tokyo and so shouldn't be too hard to reach (or to get back to Narita from If I can throughly fed up).

I need to give Japan a chance and not be in too much of a rush - so Kyoto it is

What Next

odd note - after the fluffy music extravaganza last night - Japan TV showed eXisTeZ (I thing that's how you spell it). Cronenburg being very Cronenburg - talk about a contrast!

Stuck in Tokyo
I had big problems today - and I've ended up spending a fortune on an expensive hotel. Still it's near Shinjuku station and whatever happens I need the station tomorrow.

Here's the problem

I missed todays train out to Fuji. My baggage nearly caused me an injury so I rested and tried to find an answer. Things are better, but could be better again. Trying to fix my problems cost a lot of time. I've noticed that everything takes time. A combination of distance, language and my own innate ability to walk in the wrong direction

Gripes continue

The baggage is killing me. It's just not working out very well. The humidity is not fun. I can't find anything. To be fair that last bit isn't really Tokyo's fault. I just don't work well in large cities when I have no idea how to find things. At best finding things isn't a strong point. So I'm fed up

And I've had a revelation.

I don't need to be here. I want to see everything - the world expo, the mountains the castles, the temples; and I know I can resolve my baggage issues. Give me a day or two and I'll be fine (because it takes time to find things out here).

No I don't need to be here because the Grande Tour has surpassed my expectations. I know things I didn't know a week ago. The learning curve once away from home has been astonishingly fast.

It leads to the question - do I push on in Japan as planned or do I move on to a cheaper and easier country? What do I do?

Japan is expensive and difficult. But I truly like the people and the food. Don't think I could take the Tokyo lifestyle. Tokyo is not Japan. It's just another megacity.

It's just that with all these revelations I wonder if it's worth staying in a country I always wanted to see. Or moving on.

The true story is that I want to go home and but what I have learned into effect; but then I always was impatient.

So why not go home - because I believe in tour.

Why not stay in Japan. Because to be honest I'm not sure I'll find much more here. But not doing so would also be a great waste

I have tonight to resolve these feelings and carry on tomorrow

Last Night in Tokyo

Well it's my final night in Tokyo
Rain is doing it's best to break it's way into my hotel room with huge rain drops.
However I'm safe inside - packing and watching a TV show celebrating the music used in classic animations over the years.

Today has really been one of consolidating - looking for cards and presents. Sorting out a big purchase I wanted (a new camera - the D70S) and trying to figure out a better way of filling my pack.

I found some great (and cheap) places for food and uncovered bits of Shinjuku that I'd floated past in my earlier jet lagged fuge.

Tomorrow the more exciting bit of the journey starts - the bit where I make it up as I go along - at least until my next flight that will take me off to Australia in June.

For now - it rains, the TV blares and I play with the 3D puzzle of filling bags with too much stuff

Akihabara and the Park

I was approaching a power crisis. The international plug adaptor I'd bought at Heathrow was not working at all in Japan. In fact not working doesn't really cover the fact that my go anywhere adaptor would not even plug in! Grrr. Knowing that at the very least my camera needed more juice there was only one thing for it

Visit Akihabara - The Electric City. World renowned gadget centre. I like gagets. Occasionally too much.

On Sundays they close off some of the streets to Traffic. This gives the feeling of space. Except in the shops where human space comes second to goods display space. Every single available spare space is given over to selling every conceivable cut priced electrical item. Very amazing. The staff are all manner of dress - smart, uniformed, costumed - take your pick. Everyone else looks like a geek and it's off to Geeky races.

Anyway after a bit of wandering (found a camera I liked for just over £200 less than UK price - I didn't buy on the spot - because I have overpacked a bit and another camera would weigh me down - though it is taunting me back....) I managed - via confirming in broken Japanese and English to get the conversion plug. Crisis averted.

Time to relax in Ueno Park. A huge and hugely beautiful park.

Though there was a small problem. It started earlier on when my English version of the Japan Times proclaimed the discovery of another tectonic plate under Japan. Actually it's always been there - we just weren't bright enough to realise it.

I have a connection to Earthquakes. My sneezes can allegedly be measured on the Richter scale and have in the past set of Zoo wide animal screeching and stampeding.

So in a country that considers the blowing of the nose to be rude and where more earthquake info has just been unearthed I start explosively sneezing with reverberating echo effect in a most public place.

Lucky for me there were lots of trees to hide behind.

Shibuya ,The Ginza and the Hills

I was starting to recover from jetlag. Still not the best and really wanting to focus on any big attractions for it was time to enter the Shibuya (home of modern shopping crazes - so my good guide books says), and the Ginza (the original rich part of Tokyo).

They weren't kidding. Shibuya is packed out with department stores, big stores, massive road crossings and lots and lots of people. This is the place for edgy fashion, CD and DVDs. Absolutely bursting at the seams with them. Fortunately to make things nice and tidy the Japanese build these stores tall (very tall), stretching up in piles of goodies.

The road crossing impressed me. Not just on it's size - each section is wide enough for 8 - 10 (maybe more - counting isn't a good attribute of mine) people and again in the spirt of neatness when there are a lot of people stand in nicely arranged ranks. Almost as if there was some sergeant major there - bellowing away ("Right you 'orrible lot, form up there, lets have some orderly lines, that's it, that's it ... now fix bayonets and cross that road. Come on - no prisoners now!).

Fortunately pointed weapons aren't really used and getting over these busy roads is quite easy.

I wandered around the Tokyu Hands deparment store , wandered more and then it was time to head over the Ginza.

The Giinza, is old, famous, stylish and long. On a hot day (to me it was a hot day - I'm from Wales don't forget) the Ginza Dori avenue seems to go on for ever and ever. And eternal runway of designer labels.

Big impressive buildings too.

Then there are the bridges. The Ginza has several old railway bridges and found myself thinking - these look familiar... Really familiar. Then I started to laugh. These were the bridges I'd seen crushed, stomped, kicked and incinerated through many a Godzilla movie (I'm a big Godzilla fan). Until know I'd never realised just how good the model makers were- because decades after the films were made I found myself recognising cameo landmarks. Cool!!

Back to the hotel and I ended up chatting to friendly wedding party guest from Kyoto about the sizes of Cities. He was surprised to hear that I thought Tokyo bigger than London. That got me thinking - why. As far as I know London covers more square miles than Tokyo; but Tokyo feels huger. My theory - it's the architecture. Tokyo architecture is really says that size matters. The buildings are big, really big and you know it. Even more than some clever city planner has managed to get the arranged in clumps that mean big buildings frame themselves against over buildings in a way that makes you go wow! Really is a case of style enhancing substance.

Evening was approaching so after a clean up and some Internet calls it was time to head over to Roppongi Hills. The Hills is a fairly new development - cinemas, musuems, bars, night clubs and a very impressive Grand Hyatt hotel all build to form a series of .. small hills. I was hoping to see the new Star Wars film, but it hadn't reached Japan yet. Probably a good thing as Jet lag was coming back with a vengence and I was starting to get very tired and depressed. So after a bowl of soup (lobster and blue crap) it was back to the hotel.

Two final and important notes about Roppongi Hills. Who decided to place a 10 metre tall statue of a spider there. Spiders are not a naturally friendly and welcoming form. Especially when lit to form long too many legged shadows. It's not right I tell you!!!

Finally there is the night time view of Tokyo Tower. I wasn't carrying my camera and wish I had been. The tower is lit up at night and looks like a vast pointy red crystal. A beautiful bit of clever lighting.

Shinjuku

One update from yesterday. On the way into Tokyo I spotted a Dutch windmill, in a paddy field - complete with flag!

Now - Shinjuku
Had to go there first; I'm an old anime fan and this was one area I needed to take a look at.

This meant buying a train ticket, from a ticket machine , kanji. Fortunately I was taken pity upon by a woman - who despite being busy showed me who to get a ticket. Phew - and many thanks.

It's very different - first of all coming into by the Yamanote commuter line you find yourself trapped in an underground maze. Lots of corridors, shops, plazas, signs, glowing advertising pillars and moving walkways. Almost time to get out the string in the hope you can find your way back along it. The underground area around Shinjuku and the surrounding arcology sized department stores is massive. Still eventually I staggered out into daylight (after passing spectacle cleaning stalls - using high pressure water jets) and found myself walking toward the Tokyo Metropolitan area government buildings (big) and Central Shinjuku park.

At this point some jet lag was kicking in but pressing on. I discovered that in the park. Surrounded by major roads and a packed city scape all noise ceased. Completely - just bird song and someone playing the saxophone. I know most city parks are havens of tranquility; yet in Shinjuku it's almost eerily so. As if someone - somewhere has said - no noise here. Creepy birdsong over head and some big rooks keeping their eyes on what's going on.

Back in the human part of Shinjuku - it's amazing. Turn a corner and it's tiny packed streets with stores so packed with goods that the blaze of colour, stuff and Kanji is quite disorientating. Yet turn another corner and it's all antiseptically clean, a big open urban space and strong contender for being used in a 70's film about the 21st century. Amazing diversity.

Out in the city - I discovered ordering lunch easy. A bit of Japanese, a bit of polite pointing at menu and the waitress trying out some English on me. Phew. I could eat; and wonder why all the staff were wearing strange Germanic inspired costumes.

Unfortunately the jet lag that had me wandering Shinjuku with no purpose really kicked in during the afternoon - so I was forced back to my high rise base camp. For some abuse of the unlimited coffee supply available for free in the guest lounge.

Tokyo Arrival

Well I've made to Tokyo
As usual have over packed and can barely carry gear - will adjust this over the next couple of days
The weather is a balmy 22 degrees C

All that is boring stuff.

Let's move on.

They have lots of drugs sniffer dogs in Narita (got accosted twice by handlers - one with a black lab and the other a golden retriever)

I've discovered that some airport express trains have automatic reversing seats on them (I got on a train too early - was kicked off then watched all the seats waltzing into correct position for the journey into Tokyo). These Express Trains (Skylines) come equipped with big luggage racks, reclining seats and a large array of drinks in vending machines.

Coolest discoveries so far are pedestrian crossings that play video game like marching music - and when the music stops watch out for the cars!

And that when you ask for help everyone joins in. At one point I had the staff of a gents tailors and a couple of shops next door all figuring out directions to my hotel. Though in the end it was a jolly round faced policeman who put me most firmly on track! What is it about jolly policemen!


Anyway - arrived at my hotel before check in time. Waited in the coffee shop - that in addition to paid drinks offered my gallons of much needed iced water; and then discovered that for my trouble (of arriving when I shouldn't be there) I'd had a free room upgrade to a better view!!! Fab. I know overlook Shunjuku.

Surviving so far on a strange mixture of English and Japanese

T Minus 9 Days and Counting

I've more or less finalised my flight plans.

All going well I should be leaving on the May the 18th for Tokyo (Narita International via Heathrow and a 12 hour flight).

At that point the Grande Tour will be truly and unstoppably ON!

I'm in that crazy phase now of confirming flights, booking hotels, picking up travel equipment, receiving passes (got an Airport Premier Lounge Pass - YAY) and seeing everyone I know.

Last Friday was seeing lots of old friends through a deep alcoholic phase. And in a few days there's a going away party in my honour where I hope to talk to lots of people I know for what could be the last time in a long time.

Of course there are lots of other people I need to see to. Mostly close family. This stage of the Tour is very much about people who want to watch what happens next. I like that.

It's also about shopping. There are a few things that I need to buy so the next week will also be frenetic with shopping. I'm very good at (finding bargains) but slower at deciding what to buy. Shopping could be interesting.

So here I am at T minus 9 days - marshalling lots of needs, and a tight time table.

Great Fun!

Phase 1 ... Complete

Phase 1 - or leaving my house behind so that I can fund the Grande Tour and travel around the world is complete. Actually it completed 3 days ago but since then things have been chaotic and I've only had limited Internet access.

Doesn't change the fact that it is complete.

All the basic pre-travel research and preparation is over. Now it is time to confirm flight dates and initial visa's (not that my planned route needs many visa's - a bonus).

I'm nearly all set to go.

A very strange feeling it is too.

Somewhat liberating. Extremely calming. For someone who has just put everything on the line I feel remarkably cool and collected. More in control than I have for years. Perhaps the old Zen masters were right; or perhaps this is what I am meant to be doing at this moment. My suspicion is that time will tell. I am glad thought that instead of panic I feel prepared and chilled.